Read on for our simple step-by-step guide. Will it be attached to the house or free-standing? Think carefully about the amount of sunlight and privacy available in the spot that you choose to site your deck.
Decide on the size of the deck. Ensure the fall of the deck frame is , running away from the house to aid water run off. The fall ratio tells you how sloped the decking needs to be — means that for every metre of length, the deck must slope downwards by 10mm.
For instance, a two-metre deck should slope enough to be 20mm lower at the far end. Useful to have: Spade, h eavy-duty landscape fabric, Gravel 10mm, s afety glasses, d ust mask, g loves, wood preserver. P reparing the area An existing patio or concrete base is a good solid foundation for your deck. If the ground is soft, place paving stones on top of the gravel to support the joists and help protect the timber against water ingress from the ground.
Then cut your exterior-grade joist to the desired lengths needed to create the frame and move them into position. Also check the corners are square using a set square.
Be sure to check that they are level. The joists will need to protrude by the width of a decking post to allow for a balustrade or railing post to be fixed into the frame work. Drill pilot holes through the joist and into the post. Next, countersink the holes by using a flat wood drill bit. Make sure the hole is large enough to hide the entire screw head.
Then, simply attach the two coach screws by using a socket set on a ratchet handle or a drill driver. Continue doing this around the entire deck, fixing all the joists into each post with two coach screws in each.
If you would like to add extra strength to the sub-frame, you can screw two support beams onto every second post. These will need to be positioned beneath the joists of the sub-frame. Finally, cut the inner joists to the appropriate length and attach them to the sub-frame, again, with two countersunk coach screws at either end. If you are planning on laying timber boards horizontally, the distance between the centre of one joist and the next should be a maximum of approximately mm.
If you are planning on laying timber boards diagonally, the centres need to measure approximately mm. You need to attach a balustrade after you have built the sub-frame but before laying down the deck boards. This is important as the decking posts slot in and are fixed to the corner posts, then the decking board fit in around them. First of all, you need to work out how high you would like the balustrade to be and cut the wooden spindles if necessary.
Decide on how you would like to space the deck posts it is recommended to have them a maximum of 1. Next, clamp a section of the base rail in a workbench if available and drill pilot holes of around mm apart all the way through the rail.
Slot each of the spindles into the underside of the handrail, securing them into place with screws placed diagonally through the spindle and into the rail. To make this part easier and more accurate, we recommend you measure each section with a spacer that you can make from a piece of off-cut wood.
Once this is done, fit the base rail onto the spindles and use 50mm deck screws through pilot holes into the bottom of each spindle. Next up you will need to slot in a deck post between the joist support post and the corner of the sub-frame. Attach the post to the sub-frame with two coach screws that have been countersunk just like before. Now you will need to measure up where the handrail will sit on the deck post.
Calculate where the handrail will attach and drill two holes into the post and two holes into the handrail where they will neatly meet together. Attach wooden dowels into the holes of the handrail with glue and push the handrail into the deck post, assembling it all into place.
We recommend using quick-release clamps to hold the posts and balustrade together until the glue dries. Once everything is in position, add the other coach screw to the base of the second post to secure everything in place. The simplest and easiest way to insert steps into your deck is to buy a pre-formed kit. You can find these in most DIY stores and are available in a variety of step options. If, however, you want to build your own you must first check that the site your steps are going to go on is level and firm.
If there is no hard landscaping, consider laying an area of concrete or perhaps paving slabs. You will need the ground to be even and firm otherwise the steps will not be secure and could even sink into the ground.
Next, attach them to the step risers at both the top and bottom using two countersunk coach screws on each side. Make sure that you have positioned it so that the longest edge of the stair is on the paving slab and the shortest is against the deck. Drill pilot holes into the step assembly and the sub-frame joist. Screw it securely to the sub-frame with four more countersunk coach screws.
Then, drill pilot holes and screw the treads into the rise supports at either end using two 50mm deck screws. If you would prefer to have a solid stairway to an open stair, simply fill the gaps with joist off-cuts or decking boards.
Do this by measuring the height and depth of the gap and then screw the timber into the step riser with two screws at either end.
Again, depending on the deck you are assembling will depend on how to fix your decking boards into position. If you are using square spindles, these should be fitted between newel posts at a centres spacing of no more than 10cm. First, follow these steps to construct your stringer — Measure the height of your deck frame.
This will help you understand what the height of your steps will need to be. This will also give you the height required for each riser. You should also calculate the depth of your treads. This can be done using a ruler to mark the height of each riser from bottom to top. You will need to account for the depth of the treads and factor this into your markings.
To calculate the edges of your riser, subtract the depth of your tread. These will form the lines where you need to cut your risers so they fit nicely into the stringer. At this stage you should also mark out the position of the front edge of the very first tread. To work out the edges of the tread below, subtract an overhang of the tread depth. You will not need to do this for the step which connects to the decking.
At this stage you can then subtract the thickness of the risers. Draw this onto the stringer as vertical lines so you know where to cut. At this stage you should also mark out the front edges of the treads. These should form the shape of your stringer. Once you have your outline fully drawn out, you can cut your timber with a handheld saw or ideally a jigsaw. For the second stringer you can simply use this as a template by drawing around it with a pencil on a new piece of timber.
You will need to treat any newly sawn edges that will be exposed to the outdoor weather. Once you have both sides of your stringer complete, you can move onto constructing your deck steps — First, lay paving slabs or lawn that will sit underneath the ground leading up to your deck. You can then look to fix both of your stringers to your deck frame. These should be fixed using galvanised decking nails. They can also be fixed to the ground — using an angled bracket to fix them to concrete or paving slabs.
Next, fit the riser boards, again using galvanised decking screws. Finally, screw the decking treads to the stringer, using two nails at each end. Ensure the treads are firmly attached as loose treads can pose a safety risk. Step 9: Adding a Pergola Like steps, a pergola can be the ideal addition to the main deck and can really compliment the aesthetics of your structure.
To construct your pergola — If this is not a new build, you will first need to remove decking boards where your pergola posts are likely to sit. Your posts can also be fixed to the ground using a concrete footing, which is the more secure of the two options. Once your posts have been fixed in place, where possible you should also look to attach framing between the posts.
This will help to prevent the structure from swaying as it adds to the structural integrity. This is important as pergolas can often be very top-heavy. Next, fit beams to the head of the posts — fixing one beam to every two posts.
These should sit parallel to one another. Beams can then be fixed across the posts, creating a lattice framework. These should be firmly bolted in place.
If desired, introduce vines between latticework and posts. This will naturally grow around the structure. Metal parts which connect the joists to the beams, helping to ensure that both top edges are flush. These are short bits of wood which fit between joists - often used to improve structural integrity. The holes in which the support posts are set with concrete — these bear the weight of the decking.
The outer beams of the frame which can be used to secure your decking to a building or adjoining structure. The main horizontal timbers which support the joists.
These are usually attached to either side of the support posts. These are the decking boards which are usually attached to the outer sub-frame in order to tidy the appearance. The vertical railing which is secured between the newel posts. May be used as a feature or barrier. This is a vertical board which is attached to the front of a step. Fit a fascia board below the overhanging deck board for more stability and a neat finish if you fancy.
You may need to stagger the boards across your deck, and when the ends of the deck boards meet, they will need to be fastened to a joist with four hidden fasteners two for each end of the board. If the joist is 50mm or wider, the join and 3mm expansion gap will be in the middle of the joist, surrounded by four hidden fasteners. If the joist is less than 50mm, widen the joist with an off-cut joist and fix the hidden fasteners to the joists as shown. Step-by-step advice on laying a simple deck A simple deck at ground level is a straightforward project — a perfect starting point if you're new to carpentry.
Our example is of decking that is: Laid on flat, soft and level ground Laid on the ground floor, not raised Not joined to a building Without any extra touches like a balustrade or decking lights Designed with the boards in a horizontal pattern If you plan to lay decking that's raised, adjacent to a building or wall, or would like to add a balustrade, head over to our article on laying a raised deck for more information.
Ready to start with your project? Let's go We recommend undertaking any decking project with the help and assistance of a friend. Always wear protective safety gear when necessary. If securing your decking with footings, make sure there are no cables or pipes underneath where you want to dig. Rent a cable avoidance tool CAT to conduct these checks and if found, we suggest reconsidering your decking plans. Or consider installing a hinged trap door in your decking to allow future access to the area.
Don't burn the off-cuts of pre-treated timber decking as the smoke and ash produced is toxic. Dispose of them as you would ordinary household waste. Finer-toothed saws leave a neater finish, but take longer to cut with.
Jigsaw - for making fiddly cuts in timber, if necessary Mitre saw - for a large project Circular saw - for cutting lots of thick timber, if necessary Combination square Workbench - if necessary Pencil Decking end grain protector Sandpaper or sander Paint brush - to apply the end grain protector To lay timber deck boards Timber decking boards Decking screws - we recommend choosing screws that are at least 2.
And if laying Grassedeck boards, opt for green-coated decking screws to minimise the appearance of the screw heads. Twist and flat wood drill bits - to countersink the holes To lay solid composite deck boards Solid composite deck boards - includes start clips and fasteners when purchased online.
Start clips and hidden fasteners set - only needed as separate purchase if solid composite deck boards are bought in-store. Solid composite decking screws HSS 3.
Check they work with other safety wear. For example, ear defenders worn over goggles may create a gap, which will let the sound in, so we recommend ear plugs. Knee pads Decorator gloves - for applying the end grain protector. Before you build the deck, the site needs to be properly prepped.
Step 1 Measure out the site according to your plan and hammer a peg into each of the four corners. Run a builder's line from each of the four pegs. This will help you visualise the site. Step 2 Clear away any plants, rocks or weeds. Use an edger to cut into the lawn for a straight cut, and then use a spade to remove the turf.
Step 3a Choose what surface your decking is going to be laid on. There are two options when building on soft ground: add concrete pads for extra stability or lay straight onto the ground for a simple project We recommend adding concrete pads as they're not only great for stabilising your deck; they'll ensure your decking lasts longer.
If laying straight onto the ground, jump to Step 3b. Cut and lay squares of damp-proof course to sit between the concrete and the deck joists. A few cuts : Use a panel saw. Step 1 Measure and mark the deck board at the desired length. Step 2: If using a mitre saw Position the saw on a sturdy, flat surface such as a workbench and clamp it into place. Slowly lower the blade and cut the board. Step 2: If using a panel saw Clamp the deck board in a workbench and saw.
Step 2: If using a jigsaw Clamp the deck board, face side up, in a workbench and slowly cut along the line.
Don't go too fast when using a jigsaw or the cut might not be as straight as you want it. Step 3 Apply a protective treatment to any cut or recessed timber - be it deck boards, joists or posts - before assembling. Work all this out before you cut and assemble the deck frame or add concrete pads.
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